Antigua, la ciudad de no cambio

We left yesterday morning on a shuttle from the hostel to Antigua. I think El Retiro has thought of everything. This trip was the best by far. Good music to choose from. Plenty of leg room. A driver who drove quickly but cautiously and who would ask how were doing. Kudos, El Retiro for setting a standard.

We had to go through Ciudad de Guate. to get to Antigua. I have to say that before I slept through seeing the size, squalor, and dirt of this city. A concrete jungle of different sorts. Single-room cinder block 'shacks' all around the perimeter. Smog choked streets. Burning trash and tons of people. These are 'first impressions' as the area I walked around near my hotel before didn't look so fierce. Reminds me of Tiffany's comments on seeing Visitacion Valley for the first time on our way to San Francisco.

We climbed out of the city and you get to see glimpses of its enormity. I had no idea there were highrises but there are, possibly even a skyscraper or two. And I guess there's a river that runs through it b/c that's what it looked like (come to think of it we did cross a bridge). Antigua is only about 20-30km away. I thought it was much further.

Wow, what a contrast to the other places I'd been! Bustling with people. Cobblestone streets. Colonial Spanish architecture. Burger King and Subway. How the hell can this be part of the same country? So many more white faces than I've seen in a long time. Where did all the Guatemalans go? Elisa and I took care of some errands and then got some dinner. Where did my tropical temps go? I was cold, which doesn't happen often. I'll admit, I was pretty dismayed by the feel of Antigua that night. I felt like I was back in SF again, which I love, but I hadn't anticipated. I had thoughts of 'I didn't pay to come and be in the Mission again' (Antigua doesn't have that exact feel but it's close). I went to sleep a bit upset.

Today was different though. We went to the market and I was again reminded that I was in Guatemala. The markets sell everything you'd ever want. I thought the markets in Amsterdam were special. The don't hold a candle to the ones in Guate. Here in Antigua, there's a whole section of artisans or "souvenirs" and I really got a chance to haggle. The US needs more of this I think. The vendors have gringo prices which are about double what you should pay. And the vendors are aggressive. Shopping here is not for the faint of heart. You've got to have some nads to be able to walk away if you don't get the price you're looking for. I think it's a lot of fun, even with my awful Spanish, but it's not for everyone. If you ever have a first time at this, try to have someone with you since it makes it easier to walk away if you have someone else scoffing at the price they want you to pay. And remember that you're buying. THEY want your money. Oh, man if my Spanish were better.

After visiting the market, I had a renewed outlook on Antigua. The Guatemalans are here, they just mostly disappear weeknights. Antigua is known for its European feel from the colonial Spanish architecture and Spanish immersion schools. I don't know how you'd get immersed here so I'm glad I came here before deciding to take lessons.

Elisa had been here before taking lessons for 2 weeks (and enjoyed herself), so it was nice having someone who knew their way around. She also said weekends here are nuts. She was right. Well off Ciudad de Guatemalans and tour buses descend on the city on the weekend. It's funny, both strange and hilarious, to hear thick southern US accents pronouncing quetzales (Guate. currency named after the elusive national bird) mixed in with Spanish. To me, it's also a bit frightening, to see mostly US citizens come here and expect the comforts of home to exist. Watching them interact with locals grates my nerves. But....who am I to judge? I was in a very similar pair of shoes not too many days ago, struggling with differences I'd come to take for granted. I have to remember that.

We're leaving tomorrow to go to Lago de Atitlan. I think I'll be back since it seems like all traveler's roads seem to come through Antigua.
Adios
CA