Buen precio para usted

I heard that so much yesterday it made an indelible mark on my brain. Elisa didn't like it too much when I'd repeat this over and over later in the day. Yesterday was Chichicastenango, one of the largest, most fabled markets in all of Central America. It's about 2h from Antigua by bus up in the highlands. We decided instead of day-tripping to the market, we'd stay there overnight since it was on our way to Antigua, where I am now. Yes, all roads in Guatemala return to Antigua. I'm convinced. First, the bus ride there...it was foreshadowing of things to come. By far the scariest ride to date. Second, arrival... we get there and it was chaos incarnate. We were dumped at a corner almost in the market. It was about 12-1pm. Market had been in full swing for a few hours already. A guy with a Guate tourist smock on started peddling hotels and we were hesitant to listen as this is standard when you exit any mode of transport, people start yelling at you trying to get your business. So by now, our response is "No gracias". This guy spoke some English and seemed nice enough so we listened since he didn't yell and then followed him. He walked us straight through the market, both of us fully loaded, to a decent hotel. After some lunch, we hit the market. So Chichi is a larger, more intense version of every other market I'd been to thus far. I considered myself pretty good at the haggling game but Chichi is the major leagues. I dealt with one vendor for at least 25mins haggling. Finally, the price came down to what I last said I'd pay. Instead of leaving satisfied, I felt a little upset that I didn't stick to my first price. The other thing about Chichi and the other markets is that they all, and I mean all have the same things. Difference town to town? No. Difference vendor to vendor? No. I really think there's some sort of warehouse that everyone gets there items from. Either that, or they all have the same vendor for patterns and styles.


At the end of the experience, I was really tired and my head hurt. We were there really only 2h and didn't cover the entire market. The market ends around 3pm and then people pack up everything. Traditionally, people would come from all over the country and arrive the night before the market, eat some dinner, then sleep in their space on the ground until market day morning when they would set up everything real early. Everything was so-so until dinner when I ordered something off the menu only to be served and charged for a special order. Chichi really confuses me. Lots of gringos, non-Spanish speaking gringos, come here on a tour for the day. The restaurant accepted credit cards, a novelty in this country. But, still, the order was screwed up and I was over charged. We tried to explain but our broken Spanish wasn't coming fast enough. Tired, we accepted defeat and went back to the hotel. Enough for one day.


Now we're back in Antigua and I'm running around like mad because this is one place I can accomplish everything that needs accomplishing. Flight to Peru. Bus to El Salvador beaches. Ship gifts home. Etc.


The bus ride here was the scariest of them all. I had white knuckles more than once. Since Chichi is up pretty high, we came down at break neck speeds, twisting and turning, passing on the left entirely too fast. But by the end, I was sitting in the back reading about El Salvador. Best not to look I thought.


I'm less than ecstatic to be back in Antigua. Immediately, a yuck taste was in my mouth. It's lovely and all but something about it I don't care for. Maybe it's because I have a shit-ton to do and I don't want to do it. Maybe it's just the feel. I can't put my finger on it right this second... Oh well. I have plenty to do, so I'm off.